The floating cross that's all over TikTok looks like it's hovering in mid‑air. The secret is two small neodymium magnets and a strand of clear fishing line. Here's exactly how to build one, including the cut list, magnet placement and best practices.
How the Floating Cross Illusion Works
The floating cross is a balance of two forces. A neodymium magnet is set into the underside of the frame's top wooden beam, and a second magnet is set into and hidden in the top of the cross. Because the magnets attract, the cross is pulled straight up toward the beam.
A short piece of clear fishing line runs from the bottom of the cross to the base of the frame. It stops the cross from snapping up and touching the frame. With the fishing line pulled tight, the cross hangs in the magnetic field with a small air gap, and from a few feet away, it looks like it's floating or levitating.
Because the fishing line is doing the holding, you need a magnet that's strong enough to keep the line taut across a gap, but small enough to hide inside a 1-1/2 inch wide piece of wood. That's where the magnet choice and quality really matters.
The Best Magnets for a Floating Cross
Our 1/2 × 3/8 Inch Neodymium Disc Magnets are the go‑to size for this project. At 1/2 inch in diameter, they fit neatly in the center of a standard 1-1/2 inch‑wide cross, and at 3/8 inch thick, they are strong enough to hold the cross firmly across a visible gap.
| Size | 1/2 × 3/8 Inch (Diameter x Thickness) |
|---|---|
| Grade | N52 Neodymium Magnet (NdFeB) |
| Pull force | 16.7 lbs |
| Magnetization | Axial |
| Coating | Nickel‑Copper‑Nickel |
| Max operating temp | 176°F (80°C) |
The magnets are axially magnetized, so one flat face is north and the other is south. That means you can set them flat in a drilled pocket and have the pull point straight across the gap which is exactly what is needed for this illusion.
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Materials and Tools
Materials
- 1/2 × 3/8 Inch Neodymium Disc Magnets
- About 16" of 3/4 × 1-1/2" hardwood or pine for the cross (maple, oak and poplar all work well)
- A 1 × 4 for the base and 1 × 2 for the uprights and top beam (walnut, cedar or stained pine)
- Clear monofilament fishing line, 15 – 20 lb test
- Two small brass screw eyes
- Two‑part epoxy or a CA superglue such as StarBond EM‑2000
- Wood Glue
- Sandpaper (120 and 220 grit)
- Wood Stain, paint and/or clear finish
Tools
- Miter Saw or Hand Saw
- Drill (a drill press makes straight pockets easier)
- 1/2 Inch Forstner Bit
- Clamps
- Tape Measure
- Permanent Marker
Wood Cut List
| Part | Quantity | Size |
|---|---|---|
| Cross Upright | 1 | 3/4 x 1-1/2 x 9 in |
| Cross Arm | 1 | 3/4 × 1-1/2 × 5-1/2 in |
| Frame Base | 1 | 3/4 × 3-1/2 × 10 in |
| Frame Uprights | 2 | 3/4 × 1-1/2 × 11 in |
| Frame Top Beam | 1 | 3/4 × 1-1/2 × 10 in |
These dimensions make a finished piece about 10 inches wide and 12 inches tall. Scale them up or down as you'd like - just keep at least 1 inch of open space around the cross so it doesn't look boxed in.
Step‑by‑Step: Building the Floating Cross
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Cut and Join the Cross
Cut the upright and cross arm to length. Mark the arm's position about 2 inches down from the top of the upright, then cut a half‑lap joint: remove half the thickness (3/8 in) from each piece where they overlap so the cross sits flat. Glue and clamp the joint and let it dry.
A half‑lap joint keeps the cross flat and strong, and it keeps the top of the upright solid for the magnet pocket. -
Build the Wooden Frame
Glue and screw the two uprights to the top of the base, about 1 inch in from each end. Then attach the top beam across the tops of the uprights. Check that everything is square. Leave the inside open as the cross will hang in the center.
Pro Tip: Make the frame a darker wood (or stain it) than the cross. The contrast makes the gap stand out and helps show off the floating effect. -
Drill the Magnet Pockets
With a 1/2 inch Forstner bit, drill a pocket 3/8 inch deep centered in the top end of the cross. Then find the center of the underside of the top beam and drill a matching 3/8 inch deep pocket there. The two pockets need to line up vertically, so measure carefully.
If you plan to stack two magnets on each side for a larger cross or wider gap, drill the pockets 3/4 inch deep instead.
Drill the pocket straight and centered. A drill press or a drilling guide helps keep it square. Pro Tip: Drill a test pocket in scrap first. A snug/tight fit is ideal, but if the magnet won't go in, it's easier to find out on scrap material than on your finished cross. -
Mark the Magnet Polarity
This is the step most first‑timers get wrong. The magnets must attract each other across the gap, so the faces pointing at each other have to be opposite poles.
The easy way to accomplish this is to let two magnets come together. Without separating them, draw a mark on both outside surfaces (top and bottom of the stack) using your permanent marker. When you install them, put each magnet in its pocket, marked face down. The unmarked faces, the ones that were stuck together previously, will point at each other and attract rather than repel.
Marked faces go into the wood; the unmarked faces point at each other across the gap. -
Glue in the Magnets
Mix a small amount of epoxy or other glue of your choice, put a dab in the pocket and press the magnet in, marked face down, until it's flush with the surface. Wipe off any excess glue.
Let the frame and the cross dry separately and keep them well apart while the glue cures. If you bring them close, the magnets will try to jump out of the wet glue and grab each other. We recommend following the manufacturer's directions for cure time.
Pro Tip: Want a completely hidden look? Recess the magnet about 1/16 in below the surface and cover it with a thin wood plug or wood filler, then sand flush. It costs you a little holding strength because it increases the distance the magnets have to work, so keep the plug as thin as possible. -
Sand and Finish
Sand everything and apply your stain, paint, or clear coat before you attach the fishing line. Neodymium magnets lose strength above their rated temperature (176°F), so don't use heat guns and or put the piece in a hot oven to speed up the drying time.
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Tether the Cross and Set the Gap
Twist a small screw eye into the center of the bottom of the cross and another into the base directly below the top‑beam magnet. Tie one end of the fishing line to the base screw eye.
Hold the cross up under the top beam until you feel the magnet grab it. Pull it down to create about a 1/4 inch gap, pass the line through the cross's screw eye and tie it off. A drop of glue on the knot can help keep it from slipping.
The magnet pulls up, the line pulls down. Shorten the line for a firmer hold; lengthen it for a bigger, more dramatic gap. Give the cross a gentle tap. It should wiggle and settle back in place without touching the frame. If it jumps up and sticks, the gap is too big and you need to shorten the line. If it droops or tips, the gap is too big for the magnet strength and you need to shorten the line or stack a second magnet in each pocket.
You can also experiment with hiding the screw eye in the cross by setting it into a recessed hole and also hiding it in the base to enhance the illusion.Pro Tip: You can completely hide the screw eye for an even more impressive appearance. Before you twist in the screw eyes, drill a shallow recess (about ⅜ in wide and ¼ in deep) in the bottom of the cross and in the base, then set each screw eye down inside it. With the hardware hidden below the surface, the only thing visible is the fishing line, and the illusion becomes noticeably better. For the base, you can skip the screw eye entirely if you'd like by drilling a small 1/16 in hole straight through. You can then thread the line up from underneath, and tie it off with a knot and a dab of glue on the bottom. A felt pad over the hole on the bottom hides it completely.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
| The cross pushes away from the beam instead of pulling up | One magnet is flipped and the the faces are repelling. Remove one magnet, flip it, and reinstall it (see Step 4). |
| The cross won't stay lifted | The gap is too wide or the cross is too heavy. Shorten the line, use a lighter wood, or stack two magnets per pocket. |
| The cross spins or twists on the line | Check that the two pockets line up exactly. A little movement is part of the charm; for less, tie a second line from the foot to the base to form a narrow V. |
| A magnet pulled out of its pocket | Use a two‑part epoxy or magnet‑specific glue, and let it cure fully with the parts kept apart. |
| The magnets chipped | They snapped together. Neodymium is brittle. Slide magnets apart sideways rather than prying them, and never let them slam together. |
Design Ideas and Variations
- Arched Frame: Cut the top beam as a gentle arch for a chapel‑window look.
- Personalized Crosses: Engrave a name, date or verse on the base for baptisms, confirmations, weddings and memorials.
- Rustic Versions: Use reclaimed wood for the frame and a smooth hardwood for the cross.
- Larger Crosses: Stack two magnets per pocket, or step up to a larger size from our disc magnet collection.
- Other Shapes: The same technique works for any shape including floating hearts, stars and more!
Making crosses to sell or give as gifts? Buying multiple packs unlocks volume discounts.
Neodymium Magnet Safety
Neodymium magnets can pinch skin when they snap together, and can chip or shatter on impact. Keep them away from children and pets. Swallowed magnets can cause serious internal injury. Keep magnets away from pacemakers and other medical implants. Read our full magnet safety information before you start.
Once the magnets are glued into the wood and the cross is finished, it makes a safe, sturdy display piece for a bookshelf, mantel or desk.
Floating Cross Project FAQ
What magnets do you need for a floating cross?
Two 1/2 × 3/8 Inch Neodymium Disc Magnets work for a typical 9 inch wooden cross: one in the top of the cross and one in the frame above it. For larger crosses or a wider gap, stack two magnets in each pocket.
How does a floating cross stay in the air?
A magnet in the frame pulls the cross upward while a clear fishing line tied to the base stops it from snapping all the way up. The two forces balance and hold the cross in place with a visible air gap.
How big should the gap be?
Start at about 1/4 inch. A smaller gap holds more firmly; a larger gap looks more dramatic, but is less secure. Most builders land between 1/4 and 1/2 inch.
Can I use a steel disc instead of a second magnet?
You can, but a magnet‑to‑magnet gives a much stronger pull across a gap. If you use a steel disc in the cross, expect to need a smaller gap or stacked magnets in the frame.
What fishing line works best?
Clear monofilament in the 15–20 lb range. It's nearly invisible, strong enough to hold the cross, and easy to tie off.
Ready to build your floating cross?
Grab the magnets used in this guide. Most orders ship the same day.