Magnetic Cabinet Catches: How to Choose and Install Magnets for Cabinet Doors
For most cabinet doors, screw a countersunk magnet to the cabinet frame and a slightly larger steel washer to the back of the door, on the latch side near the top or bottom corner. Size the catch for a light pull at the handle, well under 5 lb, and keep the gap between the parts as small as you can: in our calculations, the first 1/32 in of gap cuts the hold by more than half. For a hidden catch, use two magnets (north facing south), each set behind a thin skin of wood. Test with tape before you drill.
- Best all-round catch
- Countersunk magnet on the frame, steel washer on the door
- Hidden catch
- A magnet pair, each behind a thin skin of wood
- Where it goes
- Latch side, near the top or bottom corner
- How strong
- A light pull, well under 5 lb at the handle
- Gap
- As small as possible: the first 1/32 in can cut the hold by more than half (calculated)
A magnetic cabinet catch keeps a door from drifting open, with no latch to snag and no click to wear out. Neodymium magnets make the catch small enough to hide, or to tuck into a face frame where a plastic catch won’t fit. This guide covers how to choose cabinet door magnets, how strong to make them, and how to install them so the door closes flush and opens easily. For boxes, panels, trim and other furniture projects, see magnets for woodworking and furniture.
What a Cabinet Catch Actually Does
The hinges carry the door. The catch only has to keep the door closed against whatever nudges it open: a slightly warped door, a cabinet that isn’t quite plumb, a hinge that springs back, or the puff of air when you close the next door. That’s why a door’s weight doesn’t tell you which magnet you need. A heavy, flat, well-hung door may need almost nothing, while a light door that’s twisted a little needs more.
Check Your Hinges First
Self-closing and soft-close hinges already pull the door shut and hold it there. A magnetic catch adds little to them, and it can fight the soft-close mechanism. Catches are for free-swinging hinges, such as many butt, knife and decorative hinges.
Magnet-to-Steel or Magnet-to-Magnet?
| Magnet + steel strike | Two magnets | |
|---|---|---|
| Cost | One magnet and an inexpensive washer | Two magnets |
| Alignment | Forgiving: the magnet holds anywhere on the strike | Pairs pull themselves into line, but an offset weakens them |
| Polarity | Doesn’t matter | North must face south |
| Through wood or a gap | Weak | Much stronger, so it’s the choice for hidden catches |
| Feel | Firm when touching | Firm, with a little “snap” as the pair centers |
| Best for | Most surface and flush-mounted catches | Concealed catches and doors with a gap between parts |
For the physics behind this, and why a pair holds about the same as magnet-and-steel when the parts touch, see is magnet-to-magnet stronger than magnet-to-steel? Use a steel washer slightly larger than the magnet so small misalignments don’t matter; more on strike plates.
Three Ways to Mount the Catch
Surface Mounted
A countersunk magnet and a countersunk steel washer, each held by a flat-head screw. Fast, adjustable and easy to replace. The parts add their thickness between the door and the frame, so plan for it.
Recessed (Flush)
A plain disc magnet glued into a shallow pocket, with its face flush with the wood, and a steel disc or second magnet on the door. Neater, and the door can close flat.
Concealed
Two magnets set into pockets behind a thin skin of wood or filler, so nothing shows. The wood adds to the gap, so it needs a magnet pair and larger magnets.
Surface-Mounted Countersunk Catches
This is the most reliable catch for most doors. Mount the magnet on the cabinet frame (or under a shelf or the cabinet top) and the steel washer on the back of the door. Countersunk magnets need a flat-head screw that matches the countersink; full details, including torque, are in how to install countersunk magnets without breaking them.
A magnet and a washer screwed onto two surfaces that meet will hold the door open by their combined thickness, about 0.23 to 0.25 in for the pairs below. On an overlay door, either mount the catch where there’s already a gap, such as under a shelf set back from the door, or set one or both parts into a shallow pocket (a Forstner bit slightly larger than the part, as deep as the part is thick).
Recessed Glue-In Magnets
A glued-in disc gives a flush, clean look with no screw head to see. The pocket size matters more than the magnet size; see size the pocket below.
Concealed Catches Behind Wood
To hide a catch completely, drill each pocket from a side nobody sees and leave a thin skin of wood on the closing face. On a face frame, that usually means drilling from the back before the frame goes on the cabinet, since the cabinet side often blocks the spot afterward. On the door, set the magnet just below the back surface and cover it with wood filler, a thin plug or veneer, then finish over it. Nothing shows, but every bit of wood is gap.
Don't Drill Through the Show Face
The center spur on a Forstner or brad-point bit cuts deeper than the flat bottom of the pocket, often by about 1/16 in. Drilling toward a thin skin, the spur can poke through the face you meant to hide. Measure your bit’s spur and leave a skin at least twice that thick, usually about 1/8 in. For a 1/16 in skin, cut the pocket with a router and a flat-bottomed bit, or keep a bit with its spur ground short for the job, and try it on scrap first.
Because the gap is so large, use a magnet pair, not magnet and steel. Approximate straight pull through the full gap, calculated for N52 discs at perfect alignment with our magnetic model (not a measured catch):
| Full gap | Two 1/2 × 1/8 Inch discs | Two 5/8 × 1/8 Inch discs | 1/2 × 1/8 Inch disc on thick steel |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/8 in | 2.5 lb | 3.4 lb | 1.1 lb |
| 5/32 in | 2.0 lb | 2.8 lb | 0.7 lb |
| 7/32 in | 1.3 lb | 1.9 lb | 0.4 lb |
| 1/4 in | 1.1 lb | 1.6 lb | 0.3 lb |
With a standard Forstner bit, plan on about 7/32 in in all: a 1/8 in skin on the frame, 1/16 in of filler on the door and a thin bumper. Two 5/8 × 1/8 Inch N52 Discs (D58X18N52-16PK) suit most doors at that gap, and two 1/2 × 1/8 Inch discs suit small, light doors. The steel column is only for comparison: our 1 mm steel discs hold less than thick steel. More on magnets through wood.
How Strong Should a Cabinet Catch Be?
The right catch is one you can open with a light pull at the handle, while the door still closes and stays shut on its own. As a reference point, the ADA Standards limit the force to operate controls on accessible elements to 5 lb (section 309.4). Most kitchen and bath doors feel best well under that.
Where the Catch Sits Changes the Effort
The door pivots on its hinges, so the catch and the handle work like a lever. The force you feel at the handle is about:
Force at the handle ≈ catch pull × (catch’s distance from the hinge ÷ handle’s distance from the hinge)
On a 15 in wide door with the handle 13 1/2 in from the hinge:
| Catch position | Distance from hinge | Effort at the handle |
|---|---|---|
| Latch-side corner | 14 in | About 1.04 × the catch’s pull |
| Middle of the top rail | 7 1/2 in | About 0.56 × the catch’s pull |
| Near the hinge | 4 in | About 0.3 × the catch’s pull |
The trade-off: a catch closer to the hinge is easier to open, but it does less to stop the latch-side corner from standing open. For most doors, put the catch on the latch side, near the top for wall cabinets and near the bottom for base cabinets, where it’s out of sight. Use two catches, top and bottom, on tall doors or any door that doesn’t sit flat at both corners. On handleless doors, you pull at the door edge with your fingertips, which can’t grip as hard as a hand on a handle, so use a lighter catch.
Listed Pull Force Isn’t Opening Force
A magnet’s listed pull force is measured straight off a thick, ground steel plate with nothing in between (how pull force is measured). In a cabinet, a thinner washer, a gap, a slight tilt as the door swings and the lever effect above all change what you feel. Treat the ratings as a way to compare magnets, then test your catch.
What Changes the Hold
- Gaps: bumpers, a finish, a felt pad or a layer of tape between the parts. This is the biggest factor by far.
- Wood thickness: in a concealed catch, the wood over each magnet is gap.
- Steel thickness: thin steel can’t carry all of a strong magnet’s field. Our countersunk washers are 0.10 to 0.125 in thick; plain steel discs are 1 mm. See does steel thickness matter?
- Alignment: a magnet that lands half off its strike holds much less.
- Coatings and finishes: paint or clear coat over a strike adds a hairline gap, which matters most with small magnets.
Calculated straight pull for our countersunk rings on matching countersunk steel washers, at perfect alignment:
| Countersunk ring + steel washer | Touching | 1/32 in gap | 1/16 in gap | 1/8 in gap |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 3/8 × 1/8 Inch ring + 1/2 Inch washer | about 3.9 lb | about 1.5 lb | about 0.7 lb | about 0.3 lb |
| 1/2 × 1/8 Inch ring + 5/8 Inch washer | about 6.6 lb | about 2.7 lb | about 1.5 lb | about 0.6 lb |
| 3/4 × 1/8 Inch ring + 1 Inch washer | about 10.0 lb | about 4.7 lb | about 2.9 lb | about 1.4 lb |
These come from our magnetic model, not from tests of installed catches, so use them to compare options. More on how air gaps affect magnet strength.
Use the Gap to Tune the Catch
Because the gap matters so much, it’s also the easiest way to adjust a catch. Set the parts so they just touch for a firm catch, or let thin bumpers hold them about 1/32 in apart for a softer one.
Choosing the Parts
Starting points, not tested recommendations. Every door, hinge and finish is different, so test before you commit.
| Application | Magnet (SKU) | Pairs with | Mounting | Bit and screw | Limits |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small or light doors with handles | 3/8 × 1/8 Inch N52 Countersunk Ring (DCS38X18N52-36PK), 4.3 lb listed | 1/2 Inch Countersunk Steel Washer (CSSP12-100PK), 0.50 × 0.10 Inch | Surface, or flush in a 13/32 in pocket | #4 flat head on the magnet (5/64 in pilot), #6 on the washer (3/32 in pilot) | Weak through any gap |
| Standard kitchen and bath doors | 1/2 × 1/8 Inch N52 Countersunk Ring (DCS12X18N52-32PK), 7.3 lb | 5/8 Inch Countersunk Steel Washer (CSSP58X18-60PK), 0.625 × 0.125 Inch | Surface, or flush in a 17/32 in pocket | #4 on the magnet (5/64 in pilot), #6 on the washer (3/32 in pilot) | Firm when touching; use a small gap for a lighter feel |
| Large, tall or slightly warped doors | 3/4 × 1/8 Inch N52 Countersunk Ring (DCS34X18N52-12PK), 10.5 lb | 1 Inch Countersunk Steel Washer (CSSP1X18-36PK), 1.00 × 0.125 Inch | Surface | #6 on the magnet (3/32 in pilot), #8 on the washer (7/64 in pilot) | Can feel too strong at the latch-side corner |
| Flush glue-in catch | 3/8 × 1/8 Inch N52 Disc (D38X18N52-50PK), 5.5 lb | 1/2 Inch Steel Disc (12INSTRIKEDISC-250PK), 0.50 × 0.04 Inch, glued on the surface (adds 1 mm) or in a 33/64 in recess about 3/64 in deep | Glue in a pocket | 25/64 in or 10 mm bit, 9/64 in deep | Hard to remove once glued |
| Hidden catch | Two 5/8 × 1/8 Inch N52 Discs (D58X18N52-16PK), 10.2 lb each, or two 1/2 × 1/8 Inch N52 Discs (D12X18N52-24PK) for small doors | Each other, north facing south | Glue in pockets behind a thin skin of wood (about 1/8 in with a Forstner bit) | 21/32 in or 17 mm for 5/8 Inch discs; 17/32 in or 14 mm for 1/2 Inch discs | Check the poles before gluing; light hold |
| No drilling | 1/2 × 1/16 Inch N52 Disc with 3M Adhesive (D12X116N52-3M-30PK), 3.8 lb | 5/8 Inch Steel Disc with 3M Adhesive (SP583M-75PK), 0.625 × 0.04 Inch | Adhesive on clean, smooth surfaces | None | Adhesive can let go on rough or dusty wood and under hard use |
The magnets are nickel plated, with listed sizes that include the plating and a tolerance of ±0.004 in. Pull forces are the listed ratings, measured on thick steel; in a cabinet you’ll feel less. Pilot sizes are for hardwood.
Size the Pocket, Not Just the Magnet
A 3/8 Inch magnet doesn’t always fit a 3/8 in hole. Magnets vary by up to ±0.004 in, bits can cut a little over or under their size, wood can close up after drilling, and glue needs somewhere to go. Make the pocket 1/64 to 1/16 in wider than the magnet and about 1/64 in deeper than it is thick for a flush, glued fit:
| Magnet | Largest you might get | Glue-fit bit (starting point) | Depth for flush |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1/4 × 1/8 Inch disc | 0.254 in | 17/64 in or 7 mm | 9/64 in (3.6 mm) |
| 3/8 × 1/8 Inch disc | 0.379 in | 25/64 in, 10 mm, or a 7/16 in Forstner | 9/64 in (3.6 mm) |
| 1/2 × 1/8 Inch disc | 0.504 in | 17/32 in, 14 mm, or a 9/16 in Forstner | 9/64 in (3.6 mm) |
| 1/2 × 1/16 Inch disc | 0.504 in | 17/32 in, 14 mm, or a 9/16 in Forstner | 5/64 in (2 mm) |
| 5/8 × 1/8 Inch disc | 0.629 in | 21/32 in, 17 mm, or an 11/16 in Forstner | 9/64 in (3.6 mm) |
Sizes in 1/64 in steps, such as 25/64 in, come in brad-point and twist-bit sets. Forstner bits usually step by 1/16 or 1/8 in, so the next Forstner size up works too, with a little more glue around the magnet.
- Use a flat-bottomed bit. A Forstner or brad-point bit leaves a flat bottom. A regular twist bit leaves a cone: on a 13/32 in hole, its point goes almost 1/8 in deeper than the edge, so the magnet rocks and sits proud.
- Mind the spur. The center spur on Forstner and brad-point bits cuts deeper than the flat bottom, often by about 1/16 in. Allow for it wherever the wood behind a pocket is thin, and above all for concealed catches.
- Press fits are a gamble. A same-size hole might grip a magnet in softwood and be too tight in maple. Forcing a magnet can crack it, and a dry press fit can loosen as the wood moves. Glue is more reliable.
- Drill a test hole in scrap of the same wood with the same bit, and try the magnet before you drill the cabinet.
How to Install a Magnetic Cabinet Catch
Tools and Materials
- Drill/driver with an adjustable clutch, and a hand screwdriver
- Pilot bits, plus a Forstner or brad-point bit for pockets, with a depth stop
- Flat-head wood screws to match the countersinks: #4 × 1/2 in and #6 × 1/2 in suit most face frames and doors, and #8 × 1/2 in for the 1 Inch washer
- Two-part epoxy or Starbond Super Glue for Magnets for glue-in magnets
- Painter’s tape, double-sided tape, a pencil and a square
- A luggage scale or spring gauge to measure the pull at the handle
- Thin felt or silicone bumpers, if you want a softer close
- Safety glasses
Step by Step
- Pick the spot. On the latch side, near the top or bottom, where both parts have solid wood behind them and clear the hinges and shelves.
- Check the stack-up. Add the thickness of the magnet and the strike. If the door can’t close over them, recess one or both parts, or move the catch to where there’s a gap.
- Test-fit with tape. Hold the magnet on the frame with double-sided tape and set the strike on the magnet. Put a strip of double-sided tape on the strike’s back, close the door firmly and open it: the strike stays on the door, exactly where it belongs. Try the door a few times before you drill.
- Check the poles, if you’re using two magnets. North must face south. On our countersunk magnets, a red dot or line marks the north pole; see polarity and alignment.
- Drill. Mark the centers with an awl, then drill pilot holes, and pockets if you’re recessing, using a depth stop. Wrap tape around the bit as a backup depth flag.
- Secure the parts. Drive each screw slowly and finish by hand: stop when the head sits flush and the magnet doesn’t wiggle. For glue-in magnets, put a thin layer of epoxy on the walls and bottom of the pocket and press the magnet down flat; let it cure fully (often 24 hours) before you use the door.
- Measure and adjust. Hook a luggage scale on the handle and pull slowly. If the catch is too strong or too weak, see troubleshooting before you change magnets.
Pilot Holes and Screw Length
| Screw | Pilot, hardwood / softwood | Fits |
|---|---|---|
| #4 | 5/64 / 1/16 in | 3/8 and 1/2 Inch countersunk rings |
| #6 | 3/32 / 5/64 in | 3/4 × 1/8 Inch rings and our 1/2, 5/8 and 3/4 Inch washers |
| #8 | 7/64 / 3/32 in | 1 Inch countersunk washer |
These are typical sizes for wood screws, the same as in our countersunk installation guide. If your screws come with a chart, follow it: tapered wood screws and some brands call for larger pilots (example chart). A standard flat-head screw’s head is narrower than the countersinks on these parts (for example, a #4 head is at most 0.225 in across against a 0.242 in countersink), so it sits flush or just below the face. Choose a screw no longer than the part plus the wood, minus about 1/8 in, so the tip can’t break through the face of a door.
Avoid Cracked Magnets and Split Wood
- Don’t over-tighten. A countersunk magnet cracks when the screw head is driven past flush. Never use an impact driver.
- Always drill a pilot hole, and keep screws away from the ends of rails and stiles, where wood splits.
- In MDF, drill slightly larger pilots and keep face screws about 1/2 in (12 mm) from edges and 1 in (25 mm) from corners (MDF fixing guidance).
- Keep spare magnets away from the work. A magnet that jumps onto a screwdriver or another magnet can chip.
Check Polarity and Alignment
- Magnet and steel: either pole works. Center the magnet on the washer.
- Magnet pairs: our countersunk magnets come with the north pole marked by a red dot or line, and our countersunk ring packs are paired: half have the countersink on the north face and half on the south. Pair a ring with the mark on its countersunk face with one whose mark is on the back, and they attract. See how paired packs work.
- Plain discs: let two snap together and mark the outer face of each, then install them with the marks facing out on both sides. Or use a Pole Detector.
- Two catches on one door: each pair needs north facing south, but the two pairs don’t affect each other.
Troubleshooting
| Problem | Likely cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Too hard to open | Catch too strong for its position, or parts touching | Add thin bumpers to leave about 1/32 in, move the catch toward the hinge, or use a smaller magnet |
| Door won’t stay closed | Gap too large, magnet too small, door warped | Close the gap, use a larger strike or magnet, or add a second catch at the other corner |
| Door closes but won’t sit flush | Magnet and strike thicker than the space | Recess one or both parts, or adjust the hinges |
| Door bounces back open | Hard stop on the parts with no cushion, or the catch can’t reach | Add bumpers so the door lands on them, and set the parts to meet just as it does |
| Clacks when it closes | Metal hitting metal | Add soft bumpers elsewhere on the door, and accept a slightly lighter hold, or tune with a thin gap |
| Misaligned | Door sag, hinge shift or marking error | Use a larger washer, reposition one part, or adjust the hinges |
| Magnet or strike came loose | Screw stripped, or glue didn’t bond | Glue a toothpick or dowel into the stripped hole and re-drill; re-glue with epoxy after cleaning and scuffing |
| Pair pushes apart | Same poles facing | Flip one magnet |
| Catch fights the hinge | Self-closing or soft-close hinge | Remove the catch; the hinge already holds the door |
Safety
- Magnetic catches are not child-safety locks. They open with an ordinary pull. To keep children out of cleaners or medicine, use a lock designed and sold for child safety.
- Keep loose magnets away from children and pets. Swallowed magnets can attract through the intestines and cause serious injury (CPSC). Install them securely and store spares safely.
- Watch your fingers. Strong magnets snap together and pinch.
- Neodymium is brittle. Wear safety glasses, don’t strike magnets, and don’t drill or machine them; see why to be careful with neodymium magnets.
- Keep magnets at least 6 in from pacemakers and other implants (magnets and medical implants).
Magnetic Cabinet Catch FAQ
Should the magnet go on the door or the frame?
Either works. The usual choice is the magnet on the frame and the steel on the door, because a moving door is more likely to bump things and a steel strike is harder to chip than a magnet.
How many magnets do I need for a cabinet door?
One catch is usually enough for an ordinary door. Add a second, at the other corner of the latch side, for tall doors or doors that don’t sit flat.
How strong should cabinet door magnets be?
Strong enough to keep the door shut, light enough to open with a gentle pull, well under 5 lb at the handle. Because of the lever effect, the same magnet feels stronger near the latch edge and weaker near the hinge.
Can I hide magnets inside cabinet doors?
Yes. Set a magnet pair into pockets behind a thin skin of wood or filler on each side: about 1/8 in with a standard Forstner bit, or 1/16 in if you cut the pocket with a router or a bit with a short spur. The wood adds gap, so use a magnet pair rather than magnet and steel, and check the poles before you glue.
Can I replace an old magnetic catch with neodymium magnets?
Yes. A small countersunk ring and a steel washer take very little space, so they usually fit where the old catch was. Measure the old catch’s position first so the new one lands where the door already closes.
Are magnetic catches safe for child-proofing?
No. Ordinary magnetic catches open with a normal pull. Use a lock made for child safety.
Need Help Choosing?
Contact us with your door size, hinge type and how you want it to feel, and we’ll suggest parts. For production cabinets we offer bulk pricing and custom magnets.